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Is recycled gold the best choice? - W.R. Metalarts

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Is recycled gold the best choice?

by Will Nevins-Alderfer on May 26 2022
Recycled Gold vs. Newly Mined Gold You might have seen lots of jewelers (including us!) sharing that their work is made in 100% recycled metal. But what does this really mean? We hear it all the time: "reduce, reuse, recycle" so shouldn't recycled gold be the best option? Isn't it best to use existing gold that has already been mined rather than harm the planet to extract more? Read on to find out how a lot of "recycled" gold isn't really the gold standard in ethical sourcing... Enjoy 5% off your first order & be the first to know about new collections, exclusive offers & more!   But recycled is baseline a good thing...right? Recycled gold may sound like it’s the most responsible option available; however, it really is the bare minimum for jewelers who care about the human and environmental impact of their trade.  The truth is that, because gold is so valuable - it has always been recycled! No one is going to throw away gold like they might with aluminum, paper, or other recyclable materials because it is infinitely reusable! Gold’s worth is not diminished by time or use. So it has always been recycled and much of the gold in circulation in the market today has been used many times before being used in your jewelry. And even if 100% of jewelers committed to only using recycled gold, the global demand for gold would stay the same! Most of the gold you could purchase is more than likely to be recycled gold even if it is not marketed as such. Only 2% of all gold ever mined is unaccounted for in the world and according to the USGS, "about 244,000 metric tons of gold has been discovered to date," which includes, "187,000 metric tons historically produced plus current underground reserves of 57,000 metric tons." To put that in perspective "all of the gold discovered thus far would fit in a cube that is 28 meters wide on every side." So, that leaves us wondering...if recycled gold is mostly the default standard of gold, then why is it presented like it is a conscious ethical choice companies are making? When we first started out as a business we thought recycled was the best way to go. Only after joining other metalsmithing communities, like Ethical Metalsmiths, did we begin to unpack the truth behind gold sourcing. By only using recycled gold, jewelers (like ourselves) tend to separate themselves from “dirty,” problematic mining processes. But recycled gold was mined at some point and, with clever marketing loopholes, that “recycled” gold may actually have been mined quite recently! What can I do about it? How do I make an ethical choice in my jewelry purchase? Choosing recycled gold definitely isn't a bad thing - it just might not be the strong ethical stance you have been told it is. There are plenty of great options out there to make sure your jewelry aligns with your values. You can use heirloom gold to create new pieces and remove yourself from the gold supply chain altogether or you can choose something like Fairmined gold for your work of art. Fairmined gold is certifiably sourced from small-scale mining organizations that are actively embracing responsible business, social, and environmental practices. It is newly-mined gold that directly supports local mining communities. The mining organizations and workers benefit from a guaranteed fair price plus a premium for the gold they provide, and the buyer benefits from full traceability and assurance that their precious metal is responsibly mined. With Fairmined gold, the entire journey of the metal is documented and certified: from the moment the gold is extracted from the ground to when it ends its journey in your piece! This guarantees the positive impact that your purchase makes on the communities that sourced your metal. Fairmined gold purchases also contribute to the preservation of natural resources and the positive development of miners and their families - creating ripple effects of impact that influence more and more miners to get certified and more brands in the market to support and provide Fairmined gold. Up to this point, we have been choosing to only use recycled gold in our work. We are now introducing our own Fairmined initiative because we want to do more to support the small-scale miners directly. By utilizing the purchasing power of the jewelry industry to improve the mining industry, we will have a greater positive impact on mining communities and our planet than ‘opting out’ of the issue. Ethical, transparent sourcing is at the core of our business, so we’re working to level up from the status quo. Investing in Fairmined Gold is deeply aligned with our values, which is why we’re thrilled to announce our Fairmined Collections!  How is Fairmined gold certified?  Fairmined Gold is certified through a rigorous third-party investigation and audit system run through The Alliance for Responsible Mining. This system ensures that the mining organizations meet the highest standards for responsible mining when sourcing their gold. Who started the Fairmined gold initiative?  The Alliance for Responsible Mining developed the Fairmined Standard, which prioritizes positive social impacts and responsible environmental practices in small-scale gold mining.  Who does Fairmined gold support? By choosing Fairmined gold, you support small-scale mining organizations instead of large corporations (who control most of the recycled gold market). Your choice of Fairmined directly contributes to the workers sourcing your gold getting a fair price for their hard work as well as an additional premium to invest in the improvement of their operations, support of their communities, and stewardship of the environment. Artisanal and small-scale mining is responsible for 20% of the world’s gold extraction, yet employs 90% of the workers involved in gold-extraction - nearly 20 million miners working in 80 countries around the world that often face hazardous working conditions including significant mercury exposure to themselves and their communities in addition to not being fairly compensated for their work. Is W.R. Metalarts Fairmined certified? Yes we are! We still sell recycled gold as not all of our pieces can be made in Fairmined gold at this time, and we always like to provide our clients with every option for their projects. Now that we are licensed to offer Fairmined gold we are so excited to offer it as an option for your projects!  Why is Fairmined gold more expensive?  Fairmined Gold is slightly more expensive than recycled gold as it takes more time, energy, and coordination to source. It also guarantees fair wages to the workers who sourced it whereas other gold was sourced by miners paid criminally low wages. Paying a premium for Fairmined Gold ensures that we are knowledgeable and proud of the full story of our materials! We want to invest in the communities that are providing the raw materials we need to create unique fine jewelry that will be treasured for generations. We are committed to transforming the jewelry industry, including the precious metals sectors. Businesses have a responsibility to use their purchasing power to incentivize responsible and sustainable mining practices. Financially supporting this movement will bring about significant, long-term structural change. Your purchase matters and you can make a direct and measurable impact on small-scale mining communities world-wide by choosing Fairmined for your piece! Sources and Resources: What is Fairmined? The Alliance for Responsible Mining promotes responsible gold sourcing  Is recycled gold an ethical choice? - ARM  Ethical Gold: Fairmined vs. Recycled Gold  Enjoy 5% off your first order & be the first to know about new collections, exclusive offers & more!  
How to Choose your Metal - W.R. Metalarts

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How to Choose your Metal

by Kristen Georgia on Apr 18 2022
There are many different metals to consider when designing or shopping for your special piece of jewelry.  Whether color, durability, sourcing, or cost is most important to you, we’ve put together a little guide to help you choose the best metal for you or the significant people in your life!  A note on lingo: Karat (abbreviated as k) indicates the purity of the gold. Pure gold without any other metals mixed in is 24 karat (k) gold. Pure 24k gold is way too soft to use in everyday jewelry so metalsmiths use gold alloys that combine pure gold with other metals! Not only does this increase durability, but it also affects the color of the metal. 14k gold means the alloy is 14/24 parts (or 58.33%) gold and 41.67% other metals. 18k gold means the alloy is 18/24 parts (75%) gold and 25% other metals. None of our jewelry is plated so you can expect your rings to look the same on your 50th anniversary as they did on your wedding day! White Metals There are several beautiful options when it comes to white metals! We design our jewelry to be worn every day for decades or more! For this reason, we do not make or recommend silver rings, which are likely to bend, scratch, and tarnish over time. If white or silver-toned jewelry is your jam, here are our favorite choices:  14k White Gold   $  14k white gold is 58.33% gold alloyed with copper, nickel, and zinc Most affordable of the white metals we use Brightest white color of all the metals because of its nickel content  14k white gold is harder than the other golds, which makes it more durable and scratch-resistant compared to yellow or rose gold, but it may also make delicate prongs more brittle Not the best choice for someone with nickel allergies or metal sensitivities  Certified Fairmined 14k white gold is available! 14k White Gold Classic Band - Matte Finish 18k White Gold 18k white gold is 75% gold alloyed with nickel, copper, and zinc Bright, warm white color  18k white gold is softer than the other white metals 18k gold is more valuable - and more expensive - than 14k gold Certified Fairmined 18k white gold is available! Palladium White Gold   $ $ 14k or 18k palladium white gold is an alloy of gold with palladium, silver, copper, and zinc Grayish-white gray color, with a warmer tone than platinum  This alloy is nickel-free, making it a great choice for someone with a nickel allergy!  Palladium white gold is a little pricier than standard white gold but less expensive than platinum! 14k Palladium White Gold Classic Band - Matte Finish Platinum   $ $ $ Platinum is the purest precious metal available, made of 90-95% pure platinum Cooler, lighter gray color Very strong and durable! Platinum is also a little heavier than gold Hypoallergenic - this is the best choice for people who are sensitive to other metals  Platinum is more expensive than 14k or 18k gold Platinum Flat Band - Matte Finish & Platinum Diamond Pavé Band - Polished Finish   The Textured Band in 14k White Gold and Platinum Yellow Metals We love the classic look of yellow gold!  When paired with diamonds or other white stones, the contrast of the warm tone gives the gemstone an extra sparkly pop! You have several options when it comes to yellow metals:   14k Yellow Gold   $ 14k yellow gold is 58.33% gold alloyed with copper, silver, and zinc  Bright golden color  Very strong and durable!  Nickel-free alloy is great for those with nickel sensitivities Most affordable yellow metal option Certified Fairmined 14k yellow gold is available! 14k Yellow Gold Classic Bands - Matte Finish 18k Yellow Gold   $ $  18k yellow gold is 75% gold alloyed with silver, copper, and zinc  Bright, vivid golden color; 18k has a deeper luster than 14k yellow gold 18k is softer than 14k gold, which makes it somewhat less durable; intricate details may soften or fade over time Nickel-free alloy may work for those with metal sensitivities 18k gold is more valuable - and more expensive - than 14k gold! Certified Fairmined 18k yellow gold is available! 18k Yellow Gold Classic Bands - Matte Finish 18k Royal Yellow Gold   $ $  18k royal yellow gold is 75% gold alloyed with silver, copper, and zinc  This alloy combination creates a yellow-green tint, giving the appearance of 22k yellow gold with the strength and price of 18k gold  Not yet available as Certified Fairmined gold Custom 18k Royal Yellow Gold Diamond Ring Other Metals to Consider W.R. Metalarts is able to source metals beyond platinum and white and yellow gold, including pure palladium and 14k peach or 14k green gold!  By far, the most common alternative to the more traditional metals is rose gold:  14k Rose Gold   $       14k rose gold is 58.33% gold alloyed with copper and a small amount of silver and zinc  Deep rose pink color; richer color than 18k rose gold because of the alloy’s copper content Strong and durable!  Nickel-free  Certified Fairmined 18k rose gold is available! 14k Rose Gold Flat Band - Matte Finish & 14k Rose Gold Classic Band - Polished Finish 18k Rose Gold   $ $       18k rose gold is 75% gold alloyed with copper and a small amount of silver and zinc  Pale pink color; lighter color than 14k rose gold because of its greater gold to copper ratio in the alloy Nickel-free Just as with the other colors of gold, 18k rose gold is a little softer than 14k rose gold Custom 18k Rose Gold Emerald Cut Peach Morganite Solitaire   Mokume Gane If you love the look of multiple metals together, Mokume Gane might be the perfect option for you! Mokume is a traditional Japanese metalworking technique that layers different types of metal together to create one-of-a-kind patterns. To learn more about Mokume, check out this blog post!  Bimetal Mokume  $ $ $ 14k Palladium White Gold, Sterling Silver Bimetal Mokume Gane 14k Rose Gold, Sterling Silver Bimetal Mokume Gane 18k Royal Yellow Gold, Sterling Silver Bimetal Mokume Gane Trimetal Mokume  $ $ $ 14k Rose Gold, 14k Palladium White Gold, Sterling Silver Trimetal Mokume Gane 18k Royal Yellow Gold, 14k Palladium White Gold, Sterling Silver Trimetal Mokume Gane Which metal is your favorite?  We hope this blog has helped you to decide which metals you’d like to use in your own project!  If you love more than one metal, we can get creative about incorporating multiple materials into one piece!  Custom Trimetal Twist Ring with 14k Rose, 14k White, and 14k Yellow Gold Customized Mokume Gane Raindrop Band with 14k Gold Rails If you’re still not sure, we would love to chat with you about what’s most important to you to help you choose the best materials for you! Get in touch with us to start designing the jewelry of your dreams by clicking the chat button on the button right corner of your screen!  Enjoy 5% off your first order & be the first to know about new collections, exclusive offers & more!  
Where do your diamonds come from? - W.R. Metalarts

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Where do your diamonds come from?

by Will Nevins-Alderfer on Mar 30 2022
Diamond sourcing at W.R. Metalarts   Curious about where diamonds come from? Wondering which kind of diamond is right for your jewelry? Don't worry, we've got plenty of ethical choices lined up so you can pick the perfect fit for your project. Let's dive into the different ways diamonds make their way to you - that way you can choose the one that fits best with your values.   Ethically Sourced Natural Diamonds Option 1: Transparently sourced, artisanally mined diamonds At W.R. Metalarts, our preference is to source natural diamonds from ethical small-scale artisanal diamond initiatives. Some such initiatives include Root Diamond and Ethos Diamonds.  It is important to us to buy diamonds outright from these sources, instead of waiting until the stone is purchased by one of our clients to relay payment to the initiative (which is common in the industry). We think of transparently sourced artisanal diamonds as the pinnacle of ethical diamonds, because they actually create a positive direct impact for miners rather than a negative or neutral impact.  Option 2: Heirloom, reclaimed, or recycled diamonds  Whether you call them heirloom diamonds, reclaimed diamonds, or recycled diamonds, all of these terms just mean that the stone has come out of previously-made jewelry. One great thing about this option is that they hold the value of a newly sourced natural diamond but they are not newly mined. We use post-consumer certified recycled stones for recycled options, or family stones brought to us by clients. This option is a nice choice if you want to make sure that the diamond you are using for your project has not recently been sourced in an exploitative way.  The downside to this option is that we are unable to guarantee that recycled stones have been ethically sourced initially. These diamonds could have been unethically sourced or could've been sourced in a way that was damaging to the environment or exploitative to the people who worked to bring it to you. Using reclaimed stones does not actually create a positive impact.  We try to combat participating in the continued exploitation of workers in the diamond recycling market by utilizing our internal recycling program at the studio. We will trade clients heirloom stones for a credit towards their project and from this we have built up a beautiful library of recycled stones that are looking for new homes in your beautiful project! Option 3: Known-origin newly mined diamonds If you are looking for a newly mined natural diamond, especially a smaller stone - then Canadian mined diamonds could be a good choice for you. We source our newly mined diamonds (including salt & pepper diamonds) from Canada because this is the best option we have found in terms of ethical and sustainable sourcing, even though there is still a long way to go.  Though Canadian diamonds are largely traceable with excellent quality, it is true that Canadian mines have created some of the worst mining and land rights issues, so there is potential for Canadian-mined diamonds to contribute to negative impact. One issue that stands with these stones is that there are more "Canadian-mined" stones in the diamond market than have actually been mined in Canada. As a business we push our suppliers to validate their sourcing claims and encourage others to do the same. A note on “conflict-free” diamonds It is important to know that the “conflict-free” diamond certification only applies to rough diamonds, not the beautifully cut diamonds that make their way into finished jewelry. We don't believe that conflict-free certifications go far enough to ensure the ethics of our diamonds so we go beyond sourcing stones that are "conflict free." This certification only means that a company has had to prove that profits have not gone to fund civil war activities in certain conflict regions---it does not ensure safe working conditions, fair wages, or safe and sustainable environmental practices. Another growing concern are the labor abuses that take place in large stone cutting factories worldwide, which conflict free certifications do not regulate.   Lab-grown Diamonds Lab-grown diamonds are chemically identical to natural diamonds, but they are more affordable and can even be of higher quality than natural diamonds. We typically source our lab-grown diamonds from Stuller, who has a GIA facility in-house to help with verification and testing.  The downside to lab-grown diamonds is that the source is usually unknown, especially now that most US-based lab-grown diamond factories have closed. This means that we can’t always verify where the diamond came from or what conditions are like in the factory. Also, lab-grown diamonds also tend to be shipped all over the world before reaching the client, which has negative environmental implications.  Overall, we view lab-grown diamonds as less ethical or transparent than artisanally mined natural diamonds with known-origin. If you want to learn more about lab-grown diamonds, check out our 'All about Lab-Grown Stones' Blog Other Special Diamonds For colorful diamonds, black diamonds, and other specialized stones, we source through certified conflict-free sources - unfortunately we haven't found a more ethical option for these stones yet. If you have specific sourcing preferences for your project just let us know and we can make sure it is a top priority for your project!   Get in touch with us today to bring your dream project to life with the perfect diamond by clicking the chat button on the bottom right of your screen! Enjoy 5% off your first order & be the first to know about new collections, exclusive offers & more!  
Is All Fair in Love and Gold? - W.R. Metalarts

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Is All Fair in Love and Gold?

by Will Nevins-Alderfer on Jun 21 2021
Working to source all of our materials in the most ethical and sustainable way possible means we are constantly reassessing where we get our metals and gems.  It is no secret that any resource extraction done on a mass scale is nearly impossible to be done without negative impacts. Recently we have learned more about gold mining specifically, and it is becoming more and more apparent that the morals and ethics behind gold mining are easily avoided and bent. Especially in the market of “eco-friendly” gold. Currently, all of our metals are 100% recycled. But we have found that much of this metal is recently-mined, and refined multiple times at the beginning of the supply chain to meet the recycled criteria, and came at extreme cost to the environment and the people who extracted it. So we have begun the research and transition into a different approach to our sourcing. We know that now more than ever, it is important to source gold from reputable sources that use something called fair-mined gold.     Enjoy 5% off your first order & be the first to know about new collections, exclusive offers & more!       What is fair-mined gold? Fair-mined gold has received certification that it was mined in an ethical and sustainable manner from small, reputable mining organizations. It is a revolutionary movement that is making a change for the greater good of the miners and the environment and ensures that the gold you purchase is making a positive impact on the world. Why should you as a consumer care? Unfortunately, when performed in an unethical manner, gold mining can be extremely destructive and dangerous . Gold Mining causes community displacement, leads to contaminated drinking water, environmental and ecosystem destruction, and more. Making the conscious decision to buy gold from a reputable source that uses fair-mined gold can quite literally help change the world. What positive impacts does fair-mined gold have? Fair-mined gold has positive economic, environmental, labor, and social benefits. It ensures and prioritizes the livelihood and well-being of miners as well as their families and communities. Fair-mined gold also helps to mitigate the negative environmental impact of gold mining, thus, reducing irreparable damage and social impacts. Additionally, fair-mined gold contributes to job creation and economic development. Where to find fair-mined gold? At W.R. Metalarts, we are making the transition to fair-mined gold because to us, it’s a no-brainer. And starting today any of our pieces can be made in fair-mined gold! Creating jewelry does not only mean crafting designs with love but ensuring that the jewelry we create is a reflection of who we are and what our values are. We use gems and gold that are sustainably and ethically sourced.  Because jewelry should be beautiful inside and out.  You can learn more about fair-mined gold here!   Enjoy 5% off your first order & be the first to know about new collections, exclusive offers & more!     Be the change by intentionally opting for fair-mined gold for your project and be part of the movement to  change this ancient industry!
All About Lab-Grown Diamonds - W.R. Metalarts

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All About Lab-Grown Diamonds

by Will Nevins-Alderfer on Apr 01 2021
Lab-grown diamonds have long been touted as an eco-friendly alternative to mined stones, boasting identical sparkle and quality without the environmental toll. However, our perspective surrounding the ethicality of lab-grown diamonds has evolved through the years. While lab-grown diamonds are indeed chemically identical to natural diamonds and often offer superior quality and affordability, we no longer view them as our most ethical diamond sourcing option. In our quest for transparency and ethical standards, we now consider artisanally mined natural diamonds with known origins as the pinnacle of ethical sourcing. This is because sourcing artisanally mined diamonds from transparent initiatives can directly benefit small mining communities, creating a positive impact rather than a neutral or negative one, as is the case with lab-grown or recycled stones. Learn more about the ethics of diamonds here:  Where do diamonds come from?    We still acknowledge the merits of lab-grown diamonds, particularly their affordability and sometimes superior quality. However, recent developments have highlighted significant concerns. Sourcing lab-grown diamonds has become increasingly challenging, with many US-based factories closing, leading to ambiguity regarding their origins and production conditions. Also, the global shipping involved in distributing lab-grown diamonds raises environmental red flags, contradicting their eco-friendly image. While they may require less energy to produce initially, their supply chain logistics contribute to their carbon footprint.   In light of these considerations, we now view lab-grown diamonds not as the most ethical alternative, but rather as an option for those prioritizing affordability and quality, albeit with some transparency and environmental trade-offs. Our commitment to providing ethical and environmentally friendly options remains unwavering. We continue to work with trusted partners like Stuller, leveraging their GIA facility for verification and testing. Additionally, we actively seek out transparently sourced artisanal diamonds from entities like Root Diamond and Ethos Diamonds. These initiatives ensure that every diamond purchase positively impacts mining communities. For those exploring alternatives beyond lab-grown and natural diamonds, we invite you to explore our White Stones Blog for a comprehensive overview of other options available. Enjoy 5% off your first order & be the first to know about new collections, exclusive offers & more!  
What does Ethical Sourcing Mean? - W.R. Metalarts

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What does Ethical Sourcing Mean?

by Will Nevins-Alderfer on Oct 05 2020
  To us, ethical sourcing means that every person that touched your ring was treated with dignity, and paid a fair wage. It's no secret that the jewelry industry has a dark history of human rights, environmental, and labor abuses. We feel we have a professional duty to understand where our materials are coming from, to educate our clients about design choices that uphold these values, and to push our industry to have more integrity and transparency by voting with our dollars (and yours by extension!).     Enjoy 5% off your first order & be the first to know about new collections, exclusive offers & more!     Why  we go beyond "conflict free" certifications... We go beyond sourcing stones that are "conflict free" because we view the certification as problematic in several ways. First of all, it excludes small family mining and refining businesses that are unable to afford the certification, but who are producing excellent products by putting their money into paying their employees and ensuring safe conditions rather than paying the costly fee for certification (if you are familiar with the challenges of "organic farming" certifications in the US, this is a similar phenomenon). Second, the "conflict-free" certification only means that company has had to prove that profits have not gone to fund civil war activities in certain conflict regions---it does not ensure safe working conditions, fair wages, or safe and sustainable environmental practices. Another growing concern are the labor abuses that take place in large stone cutting factories worldwide, which conflict free certifications do not regulate. How we ensure our sourcing matches our values... To mitigate these concerns, we work primarily with certified Fairmined gold, known origin gemstones and stones and metals upcycled from our clients’ heirloom jewelry. Because we believe brands have an ethical responsibility to advance the global mining industry, we proactively forge personal relationships with miners, stonecutters, and refiners. You can trust your new jewelry was made with integrity, intension, and transparent practices. When possible, we try to source stones mined in the United States. Did you know that Vermont has blood red and deep orange garnets? Montana has large deposits of amethyst and sapphire? Maine has beautiful green and pink/peach tourmaline, amethyst, aquamarine, and morganite? To make our pieces extra special, we love to source stones from regions that have meaning to our clients! Lab grown stones... Lab-grown diamonds are chemically identical to natural diamonds, but they are more affordable and can even be of higher quality than natural diamonds in terms of hardness and calibration. However, the downside to lab-grown diamonds is that the source is usually unknown, especially now that most US-based lab-grown diamond factories have closed. This means that we can’t always verify where the diamond came from or what conditions are like in the factory. Also, lab-grown diamonds also tend to be shipped all over the world before reaching the client, which has negative environmental implications. Overall, we view lab-grown diamonds as less ethical or transparent than artisanally mined natural diamonds with known-origin. Learn more about the ethical of diamonds in these Blog posts:  -Where Do Your Diamonds Come From?  -All About Lab-Grown Diamonds     Enjoy 5% off your first order & be the first to know about new collections, exclusive offers & more!